In November there aren’t many options to see the fjords. When it came down to it, our only option was Norway in a Nutshell. As much as I am not a fan of pricy, organized tours – it was an easy and efficient way to see what we wanted to see.
Bergen –> Myrdal –>Flåm –> Gudvangen –>Voss –>Bergen
train –> old train –> boat –> bus –> train
From Bergen to Myrdal we took a standard train, but once at Myrdal (which consists of just 5 houses and a train station), we boarded the Flåm Railway. These days it is mainly a tourist attraction, but one that is a pretty amazing engineering marvel. The train gains (or loses in our case) 864m at a gradient of 1:18. It travels through 20 tunnels, 18 of which were carved by hand. A month of work resulted in just a meter of progress!
Flåm was a bit sleepy this time of year. I was a bit sad to see that the microbrewery was closed, but then happy to realize they sold their beer in the café next door. When you’ve got an hour to kill in a small town, and IPA is a lovely distraction.
For our boat trip we traveled from Flåm to Gudvangen along the Aurlandsfjorden and Nærøyfjorden. Because we were in the off-season the boat was quiet and peaceful. It was easy to take in the views from the deck and we had front row seats in the cabin. The downside is that the sun set early, before we finished the trip. While we didn’t actually see the sun set, the time of day along with the weather made for some pretty lighting.
The fjord was like glass, making perfect reflections on the surface. The air was still, the only noises coming from our boat gliding through the water and breaking up the think layer of ice on top of the water. The wake from the boat caused a ripple in the water behind us that I was completely fascinated with.
While the rest of our trip back to Bergen took place in the dark, we had seen what we had come to see. And it was absolutely beautiful.